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Manufacturing

Loden production–
a timeless craft with history

Loden production, which is mainly characterized by the fulling of wool fabric, has been practiced in the Alpine region for around 500 years. The demand for warm and robust clothing was particularly high here. The technique remains the same today, only the raw material has changed slightly. It is no longer just wool from mountain sheep that is used, but also softer wool, e.g. from merino sheep and alpacas. As loden is now an (underrated) niche product, there are only a few loden manufacturers left in Europe. Our main supplier, the Steiner1888 loden manufacturer in Mandling, Austria, guarantees excellent quality and the “purity law”: the loden is produced here in the traditional way, from 100% natural fibers. Only in this way can the positive properties of the wool be fully “brought to bear.”

How virgin wool becomes loden

Only virgin wool from mountain sheep, merino sheep, alpacas, and cashmere goats is used to produce loden. “Virgin wool” means that the wool comes from living animals.

The first step is to clean the raw wool. It is then balanced and dyed according to various recipes, depending on the desired color of the loden.

Around 40 complex steps are required to produce loden from the raw wool. Although these steps are carried out with the aid of machines, a great deal of manual work is still involved. Loden production is and remains a true craft that requires a great deal of knowledge and skill.

The four main production steps are spinning, weaving, fulling, and finishing.

First step

Spinning

First step

Spinning

First, the wool fibers must be laid into a fine fiber fleece. This is done by the so-called „carding machine“. Depending on the quality and the colour you want to achieve, the raw wool is mixed on this machine according to special recipes. This fiber fleece is then divided into strips and rounded into a roving at the so-called “Nitschelwerk”. A roving is not yet tear-resistant. Therefore, the roving is inserted into the ring spinning machine, that creates a tear-resistant woolen yarn (as we know it) by continuously twisting and simultaneously stretching the roving. 

Second step

Weaving

Second step

Weaving

After gaining the woolen yarn, it is woven into a fabric. This process is also done by machines at a speed where the weaving is almost invisible to the naked eye. Nevertheless, the trained weavers have a lot to do. Sometimes a thread can break and has to be reworked. 

Third step

Milling

Third step

Milling

Now comes the decisive production step that turns a simple wool fabric into a special loden fabric.  

The woven fabric is pulled over rollers under the influence of moisture and heat, causing it to felt. This is known as “fulling”. This process causes the woven fabric to shrink in length and width, depending on the intensity of the fulling. For example, a 2.50 m wide woven fabric can become a loden of only 1.50 m. 

The intensity of the fulling then also determines the properties of the loden. The stronger and longer the fabric is milled, the more water- and wind-repellent it becomes, as the surface of the fabric is better “sealed”. Nevertheless, it never loses its breathability due to the temperature and moisture-regulating properties of the wool. 

Fourth step

Refining

Fourth step

Refining

After fulling and after the loden has been washed clean again, it is clamped into the shearing machine. This cuts the short fibers that are created during the fulling process to a hundredth of a millimeter. 

Finally, the loden is placed in the decatizing machine. This process is similar to hot steam ironing. This final step is important to ensure that the finished garment retains its shape. 

natural & durable

Loden Benefits

Loden is wind and water repellent, hard-wearing and durable. It is also unbeatably comfortable to wear. No (daily) washing is necessary – simply hang the outfit out in the fresh air overnight. It’s ready for the next day.   

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